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Monthly Archives: March 2013

Jabonman Vetiver-Tangerine-Litsea Cubeba shaving soap

31 Sunday Mar 2013

Posted by Palpz in Jabonman, Soap, Spanish

≈ 7 Comments

Tags

8/10, citrus, Fruit, jabonman, shaving soap, tangerine, vetiver

Jabonman - Vetiver Tangerine

I really liked the smell of this shaving soap; the earthiness of the vetiver paired really nicely with the sweetness of the tangerine, and a bit of the tartness of the Litsea Cubeba (which for anyone who like me didn’t know, is a largely lemony-scented essential oil). Combined, they reminded me a lot of lemongrass, but a bit deeper and a bit sweeter.

The strength was good; it came on nice and strong at the start, with a bit of fading during the shave, but not too much.

Lather-wise, I found it better than I found the last Jabonman soap I tried. A few other posts about the soap seem to indicate that one of the keys is putting a bit of elbow grease into building the lather. It ended up with something nice and thick, with some decent glide. Decent moisturization, which this time I can’t attribute to the lanolin, as this formulation doesn’t contain any.

  • 9/10 Scent Pleasantness
  • 8/10 Scent Strength
  • 8/10 Lather Quality

This one merits an 8/10. I just kind of wish the sample I had had enough for a few more shaves.

  • Cost: Apparently it’s about 10.50 Euro a puck, plus shipping and handling. Jabonman doesn’t have a website, but if you e-mail the manufacturer, Manual Garcia at magafe_es@yahoo.es, he can give you an accurate price list. But he does rely upon google translate, so you might want to avoid convoluted language.

Gear used:

  • Brush: Wee Scott
  • Razor: Gillette Old Style with WWI US Service Set
  • Blade: Shark Super Stainless
  • Scuttle: Robert’s Feats of Clay #4

Ingredients: (Note: I’m not positive that this listing is for this scent, but it’s the closest I was able to find on-line) Palm stearic, coconut oil, argan oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, castor oil, rosehip oil, shea butter, glycerine, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, water, aloe vera, rhassoul (a moroccan clay), aromas

Al’s Shaving Products – Scent of the Month: Casablanca Shaving Cream

27 Wednesday Mar 2013

Posted by Palpz in Al's Shaving Products, American, Cream

≈ 3 Comments

Tags

9/10, Al's Shaving Products, cedar, citrus, Fruit, Orange, shaving cream, SOTM, spice, wood

Al's SOTM - Casablanca

The 2nd of the two Scents Of The Month from Al for April is Casablanca. It’s cedar scent with orange, conifers (well, other conifers, since cedar itself is a conifer too!), and spices. It is an absolutely lovely masculine scent. While the cedar is most noticeable at first, the orange caught up within a few sniffs; together the two make quite a pairing, and the spiciness gives just a little bit of kick to back it all up.

I would have liked just a tiny bit more oomph to it. It’s not strongly scented, but not weak either. Once applied, it does manages to last the shave without much in the way of fading.

As for the shave itself, it’s the great shave I’ve come to accept from Al’s. Thirsty cream, so use a fair bit of water. It’s not easy to screw up, having a nice and wide sweet spot for acceptable water content, giving you a good balance of the amount of lubrication you get and the thickness of the cream for your cushioning. Good moisturizing properties as well, giving a nice soft feeling to the face.

  • 10/10 Scent Pleasantness
  • 9/10 Scent Strength
  • 9/10 Quality of Lather

Needless to say, I’m giving this one a 9/10. It could possibly use a bit more scent to it, but all in all I’d say that it could still easily be “the beginning of a beautiful friendship.”

  • Cost: This sample was provided gratis for the purposes of this review. The SOTMs are available for $18 for a 4 oz tub.

Gear used:

  • Brush: Wee Scott
  • Razor: Gillette Old Style with WWI US Service Set
  • Blade: Shark Super Stainless
  • Scuttle: Robert’s Feats of Clay #4

Ingredients: “The forumula of Al’s Shaving Cream is Triethanolamine and preservative (parabens) free and only contains sodium and potassium salts of fatty acids (stearic, oleic, linoleic, palmitic, myristic and lauric) in addition to water, glycerin and botanicals.”

Al’s Shaving Products – Scent of the Month: Rosebud Shaving Cream

26 Tuesday Mar 2013

Posted by Palpz in Al's Shaving Products, American, Cream

≈ Leave a comment

Tags

9/10, Al's Shaving Products, citrus, floral, lavender, musk, Rose, shaving cream, SOTM, spice

Al's SOTM Rosebud

Al’s Shaving Products has three of their “Scents of the Month” coming out for April, and I was offered a chance to get a sneak peek at two of them. The first would be the Rosebud.

As per usual, Al’s Shaving Products provided a very nice shave. It’s a thirsty cream, so don’t skimp on the water; it’ll be put to good use, and you don’t need to worry much about overshooting the water content, as it’s got a pretty wide sweet spot. Nice and thick, while plenty slick, and leaving the face feeling more and soft and moisturized than most creams do.

The aroma is a floral scent (rose and lavender), with a base of musk and hints of citrus and spice. The florals were tempered nicely by the other scents, avoiding becoming cloyingly sweet. Al says that he was shooting for “a cleaner version of Pierre cardin pour Monsieur [more] oriented for younger audiences, [that] dries with notes that are similar to Old Spice”, if that helps you make a decision on whether or not you’d like it.

The strength is pretty decent. It comes on strongly, and stays that way throughout about half of a pass or so, after which it’ll start fading somewhat. By the end of each pass, it’s definitely still there, but not quite what I’d call strongly so. At the start of the shave, it’s at a 10/10, by the end, about a 8/10, IMHO.

  • 9/10 Scent Pleasantness
  • 9/10 Scent Strength
  • 9/10 Quality of Lather

I’m happy enough to round this one up to a 9/10. If the scent sounds appealing, I suggest getting it while you can.

  • Cost: This sample was provided gratis for the purposes of this review. The SOTMs are available for $18 for a 4 oz tub.

Gear used:

  • Brush: Ecotools Kabuki Finishing Brush
  • Razor: Vintage Bakelite Slant
  • Blade: Bolzano Superinox
  • Scuttle: Robert’s Feats of Clay #4

Ingredients: “The forumula of Al’s Shaving Cream is Triethanolamine and preservative (parabens) free and only contains sodium and potassium salts of fatty acids (stearic, oleic, linoleic, palmitic, myristic and lauric) in addition to water, glycerin and botanicals.”

One Shave unscented shaving cream

21 Thursday Mar 2013

Posted by Palpz in American, Cream

≈ 4 Comments

Tags

5/10, Discontinued, non-lathering, one shave, unscented

One Shave

Edit: It looks like this stuff has been discontinued.

I was contacted by the owner of One Shave Cream, who wanted to know if I’d do a review on his product. I warned him that I, in general, am not too much of a fan of either unscented shaving creams, or of non-lathering shaving creams, and his product was both. But he wanted to go ahead with it anyways, so here’s the review. In short, for an unscented and non-lathering shaving cream, it’s not too shabby.

It’s a bit of a weird shave; kind of like a shaving gel and a lotion rolled into one. If you rub a small amount in, it will work its way into the skin much like a lotion would. One thing I found is that this made it a bit difficult to get an even coating of the cream across the face. It provided a good amount of lubrication, and a fairly protective / cushioned shave, for a non-lathering cream. Which is still to say a bit less than I prefer, for thickness and cushioning. In fact, of the non lathering creams I’ve tried thus far (others being here, here, and here), I think this one does provide the best shave. It also has very good moisturizing properties, which is enough to bump the “lather” rating up to 7/10.

And for those to whom this stuff matters, the ingredient listing appears to be pretty much all “natural” ingredients, with many of them organically sourced. I suppose I should also mention the obligatory disclaimer when dealing with non-lathering products: you should expect to use a lot more of it per shave than you would with a soap or a cream. I find with most creams, an almond-sized amount is more than enough for a full 3 pass shave (adding that air and water into the mix goes a long way). Not so much with this, a fair chunk over that would be needed just for one pass.

As for the scent, well, it’s supposed to be unscented. You can still catch a whiff of some of the ingredients. Overall it smells kind of fresh, mostly from the aloe juice, with just a hint of citrus, combined largely with a less natural smell which I think is largely from some of the oils used. It’s not bad, but nothing that I’m going to want to sit around sniffing.

But that having been said, it’s rather weak; very lightly detectable in the background while you’re shaving. Which, of course, seems to be the intent of the cream.

As anyone who’s been following my reviews knows, I do rather consider the scent of a shaving cream or soap to be an integral part of the shaving experience. So, the fact that this is only available in the unscented will hurt the overall rating too. Naturally, should you not agree with me on the importance of the scent, feel free to disregard the overall rating and work solely on the “lather” quality rating.

  • 6/10 Scent Pleasantness
  • 4/10 Scent Strength
  • 7/10 Lather Quality

Overall, I think I’m willing to round up to a 5/10. It’s still the nicest shave I’ve gotten out of a non-lathering shaving cream, but I personally would not be reaching for it due to the lack of scent. Of course, your mileage may vary.

  • Cost: This 2 oz travel size jar was provided to me for the purposes of this review. It would normally go for $9; also available in 4 oz ($17) and 8 oz ($28).

Gear used:

  • Razor: Edwin Jagger DE81BL (Red)
  • Blade: Gillette 7 O’clock Black

Ingredients: Aloe Barbadensis (Organic Aloe) Juice, Cocos Nucifera (Organic Coconut) Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii (Organic Shea) BUtter, Ricinus Communis (Castor) Oil, Emulsifying Wax, Calendula Officinalis (Organic Calendula) Extract, Palm Stearic Acid, Vegatable Glycerin, Cocoa Butter (Natural), Lavendula Angustifolia (Organic Lavender) Distillate, Vaccinium Myrtillus (Organic Bilberry) Extract, Saccharum Officinarum (Organic Sugar Cane) Extract, Acer Saccarinum (Organic Sugar Maple) Extract, Citrus Auranium Dulcis (Organic Orange) Extract, Citrus Medica Limonum (Organic Lemon) Extract, Vaccinium Macrocarpon (Organic Cranberry) Extract, Carica Papaya (Organic Papaya) Extract, Ananas Comosus (Organic Pineapple) Extract, Glycolic Acid, Malic Acid, Tartaric Acid, Tocopherol (Vitamin E), Olea Europaea (Organic Olive) Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis (Organic Jojoba) Oil, Citric Acid.

Barrister and Mann – Bay Rum

19 Tuesday Mar 2013

Posted by Palpz in American, Barrister and Mann, Soap

≈ 5 Comments

Tags

9/10, Barrister and Mann, bay rum, shaving soap

Barrister and Mann - Bay Rum

Yesterday was Barrister and Mann’s launch day, so I figured it would be a good time to review one of the samples that he had asked for my feedback on. My first impressions from this soap is that it’s very reminiscent of Mike’s Natural, and I mean that in the best way possible.

Lather-wise, at first try, with just a little bit of water you can whip up a thick cream that is somewhat deficient in the lubrication aspect. And if you stop there, you might come away thinking that this is a so-so soap, nothing to write home about.

But, like Mike’s, if you keep adding water, that water will be put to good use by the soap; it’ll only thin out slightly, staying nice and creamy, but significantly increases the amount of glide. There’s nothing wrong with it being a fairly thirsty soap, but it helps to know it is before you try it! After the shave, it left my face feeling quite nice, soft, and moisturized. Despite the fact that the new (well, really old!) razor I was using kinda hacked it up.

The scent is just a fantastic Bay Rum, minus the typical cloves that many people apparently can’t stand. I myself don’t mind cloves, but I also wasn’t particularly missing their absence. What did go into the aroma was “West Indian Bay (none of that cooking bay stuff), sweet orange, real blackstrap rum, benzoin (a warm, vanilla-like scent), and just a hint of cassia cinnamon, which provides a pleasant warmth.” All told, it made quite a nice blend.

Strength-wise, I’d say it was spot-on. Nice and strong, and almost nothing in the way of fading. Much more and I feel it would have gotten into the realm of overpowering, but as is I thought that it was just about perfect.

  • 9/10 Scent Pleasantness
  • 10/10 Scent Strength
  • 9/10 Quality of Lather

Frankly, considering that this is from a neophite soap-maker, I’d say he’s setting himself up for some great expectations (considering the other two samples I’ve seen, I don’t think this one’s just a fluke). I look forward to seeing the rest of what he comes up with. Overall, a strong 9/10; highly recommended.

  • Cost: As mentioned, the sample I used was provided because the soapmaker (fellow redditor BostonPhotoTourist) wanted my feedback. They haven’t yet added samples to their store, however we’ve been told that they plan on doing so within the next few weeks. The full-sized 3.75 oz pucks will be $10. A damned good price for what you get.

Gear used:

  • Brush: Ecotools Kabuki Finishing Brush
  • Razor: Gillette Old Style with WWI US Service Set
  • Blade: Shark Super Stainless
  • Scuttle: Robert’s Feats of Clay #4

Ingredients: Potassium Stearate, Sodium Stearate, Potassium Tallowate, Sodium Tallowate, Aqua, Glycerin, Potassium Ricinoleate, Sodium Ricinoleate, Citrus sinensis (Sweet Orange) Oil, Pimenta racemosa (West Indian Bay) Oil, Rum, Styrax Benzoin Oil, Cassia auriculata (Cassia) Oil, Coconut Milk, Potassium Kokum Butterate, Sodium Kokum Butterate, Unrefined Shea Butter, Potassium Cocoate, Sodium Cocoate, Lanolin, Allantoin, Silk Protein, Tocopherol Acetate.

Kell’s Original Hemp Blend Shaving Soap – Black Tea

17 Sunday Mar 2013

Posted by Palpz in American, Kell's Original, Soap

≈ 2 Comments

Tags

8/10, amber, bermagot, black tea, cedarwood, citrus, floral, Fruit, Glycerin, Jasmine, kell's original, lemon, musk, Orange, shaving soap, tea

Kell's Original Hemp Blend - Black Tea

Kell’s Original Black Tea is one of those ones were it’s probably best just to start off by giving you the listing of how they describe the scent:

This smoky, sexy and sophisticated fragrance is reminiscent of roasted tea leaves with strong overtones of tobacco. With surprising top notes of Italian Bergamot, Sicilian Lemon and Southern Orange, the blend winds down with Black Tea Leaves, Star Jasmine, White Cedarwood, Amber Crystal and a rich musk. This is a bold and unusual scent sure to intrigue.

So, as you can see, it’s a fairly complex scent. I’m not going to lie, had someone asked me to sniff it and give a description, I’m not sure that “tea” would have popped up. But, knowing that’s what they’re going for, I can see how it hints at that. I’m not entirely sure that I pick up everything listed there, in particular I don’t get all that much of a citrus impression at all, be it lemon, orange, or bermagot. As an aside, I think I would greatly enjoy a shaving soap that manages to capture the essence of Earl Grey, a classic blend of black tea and bermagot.

Anyways, it’s a complex scent, but it’s rather enjoyable; I found it to be somewhat invigorating, it’s just spicy enough to give a little bit of a kick to the senses. It comes on just shy of “strong”, but manages to avoid fading noticeably from there.

As is expected now from Kell’s Original, the lather is quite nice. It’s provides good performance in thickness, glide, and moisturizing properties, provided that you remember to use enough water! Quite voluminous as well, a fully loaded brush will provide far more lather than is needed for a typical 3-pass shave.

  • 9/10 Scent Pleasantness
  • 9/10 Scent Strength
  • 8/10 Lather Quality

All-in-all, 8/10. I’d definitely recommend at least trying out a sampler. Also available with aloe, although I haven’t tried that formulation.

  • Cost: The sample puck used was $2 for 1 oz, also available are 2.7 oz cakes for $5.25, 4oz in a tin for $8, or a 2.5 oz shave stick for $9.

Gear used:

  • Brush: Ecotools Kabuki Finishing Brush
  • Razor: Vintage Bakelite Slant
  • Blade: Bolzano Superinox
  • Scuttle: Robert’s Feats of Clay #4

Hemp blend ingredients: Coconut Oil, Palm Oil, Olive Oil (Grade A extra virgin), Safflower Oil, Glycerine (vegetable origin), Hemp Seed Oil (unrefined), Purified Water, Sodium Hydroxide (saponifying agent), Sorbitol (moisturizer), Sorbitan oleate (emulsifer), Soy bean protein (conditioner), Wheat Protein (conditioner)

The Shave Den – Signature scent shaving soap

16 Saturday Mar 2013

Posted by Palpz in American, Soap, The Shave Den

≈ Leave a comment

Tags

7/10, bay rum, bermagot, citrus, Glycerin, shaving soap, the shave den

TSD - Signature

The Shave Den’s Signature scent is a bay rum spiked with bermagot.  Bay rum crossed with Earl Grey, it’s a bit like the Caribbean meets England. It’s a bold masculine aroma which I rather quite like. It comes on reasonably strongly, with not much in the way of fading while you shave.

As for the lather, again, it does the trick, but it can be picky. I usually find I have to error a bit on the side of too much water, as having it a bit thin is usually better than not having enough lubrication. You should load the brush heavily and add water gradually, because it can be easy to overshoot the water content you’re looking for. It does however produce quite a lot of lather; volume definitely not a problem with this one.

  • 9/10 Scent Pleasantness
  • 8/10 Scent Strength
  • 7/10 Lather Quality

I’ll be giving this a 7/10 overall. It’s a decent enough all-around soap.

  • Cost: A one ounce sample goes for $2.50, or $6.99 for a full 4 ounce puck (an extra $2 if you want a tub with it).

Gear used:

  • Brush: Ecotools Kabuki Finishing Brush
  • Razor: Edwin Jagger DE81BL (Red)
  • Blade: Gillette 7 O’clock Black
  • Scuttle: Robert’s Feats of Clay #4

Ingredients: Glycerin, Aqua, Olive Oil, Bentonite Clay, Sodium Borate, Sweet Almond Oil, Sodium Palmate, Sorbitol, Sodium Cocoate, Palm Acid, Coconut Acid, Pentasodium Pentetate, Tetrasodium Etidronate, and fragrance.

Honeybee Soaps – Hydrogen

14 Thursday Mar 2013

Posted by Palpz in American, Honeybee Soaps, Soap

≈ 7 Comments

Tags

7/10, amber, Apple, citrus, floral, Fruit, Glycerin, grapefruit, honeybee soaps, hydrogen, peach, raspberry, sandalwood, shaving soap

Honeybee Soaps - Hydrogen

Hydrogen from Honeybee Soaps is a rather complex scent; mostly fruity with a few woodsy undertones. Honeybee describes it as “Apple, grapefruit, peach and greenery mix with soft floral middle notes, rounded off with base notes of sandalwood, amber and raspberry musk.” It’s a light and fresh, and I really rather quite like it. I’d be a good summer fragrance methinks. I’m pretty sure that’s not what H2 smells like however.

Unfortunately, when I said light, I mean too light. It’s not strong enough for my liking, just barely above the threshold where it’s noticeable when first lathered on; by the end of the shave it faded to the point where your get a sporadic whiff.

As for the lather, it’s what I’ve come to expect from Honeybee soaps; use a lot of water and a bit of elbow grease, and you’ll get a nice balance of thickness and a good amount of glide.

  • 9/10 Scent Pleasantness
  • 7/10 Scent Strength
  • 8/10 Lather Quality

Overall a nice decent all-around soap. A tad stronger (ok, probably about 3-4 times the fragrance level) would have been nice though. 7/10.

  • Cost: Samples are $1.59 per ounce, full 3.5 ounce pucks are $4.49, or $5.99 for 4 ounces in a plastic tub.

Gear used:

  • Brush: Ecotools Kabuki Finishing Brush
  • Razor: 1966 Gillette Tech
  • Blade: Gillette 7 O’clock Black
  • Scuttle: Robert’s Feats of Clay #4

Ingredients: Coconut Oil, Palm Oil, Castor Oil, Hempseed Oil, Safflower Oil, Shea Butter, Glycerine (vegetable origin), Vitamin E, Water, Sodium Hydroxide, Sorbitol, Sorbitan Oleate, Soybean Protein, Wheat Protein, White Kaolin China Clay, Cosmetic Color and Fragrance Oil.

Queen Charlotte Soaps – Vostok shaving cream

10 Sunday Mar 2013

Posted by Palpz in American, Cream, Queen Charlotte Soaps

≈ 2 Comments

Tags

4/10, menthol, peppermint, Queen Charlotte Soaps, shaving cream

QCS - Vostok Cream

To follow up yesterday’s QCS Vetiver soap review, I’ve now got the first of the shaving creams I’ve tried from Queen Charlotte Soaps; thus far I like it better than the soap samples. It seems to have a bigger “sweet spot” of water needed for a good combination of lather thickness and lubrication. It used, well, about an average amount for most other creams that I’ve come across. It’s a fairly thick cream, not sticky or goopy, honestly I would almost call it a really soft soap, consistency-wise at least.

As a reminder, I redid the lather quality scoring system, what used to be a 9/10 has been split into 9/10s (former “high 9s”) and 8/10s (former “low 9s”).

The scent, well, it’s menthol and peppermint. I generally like a bit of menthol, and enjoyed giving this cream a sniff.

It’s when I lathered it up and put it on my face that I rather stopped enjoying it. It’s strong. Very strong. “Enough menthol to make my eyes water” strong. I know that’s kinda this cream’s gig, and I should have expected what was coming. I mean, they say outright that “Vostok is a face-freezing blend of ice-cold peppermint and blizzard-like blasts of sub-zero menthol. We do not believe there exists a colder shaving product”. But I was still a bit unprepared for just how much freezing-action hit my face. It was just bloody cold.

If that’s what you’re going for, fill your boots. But I don’t think I’ll be trying this one again any time soon. Maybe to make a bit of superlather if I want to add a bit of a kick to some other scent, making sure not to use too much of course.

  • 8/10 Scent Pleasantness
  • 13/10 Scent Strength
  • 8/10 Lather Quality

This wasn’t really what I consider to be a very pleasant shave. 4/10. Your mileage of course, may vary if you really like the cooling action.

  • Cost: Queen Charlotte’s cream samples are 5 for $8, but with a surcharge for certain scents, bringing the price for this particular sample to $2.10. A full tub will run you $16.

Gear used:

  • Brush: Ecotools Kabuki Finishing Brush
  • Razor: 1966 Gillette Tech
  • Blade: Gillette 7 O’clock Black
  • Scuttle: Robert’s Feats of Clay #4

Ingredients: Water, saponified stearic acid, glycerin, saponified tallow, palm oil, olive oil, and coconut oil, aloe vera extract, essential oil(s), kaolin clay, phenoxyethanol (and) caprylyl glycol, vitamin E. Vostok contains menthol crystals.

Queen Charlotte Soaps – Vetiver shaving soap

09 Saturday Mar 2013

Posted by Palpz in American, Queen Charlotte Soaps, Soap

≈ 3 Comments

Tags

6/10, Queen Charlotte Soaps, shaving soap, vetiver

Queen Charlotte Soaps - Vetyver Soap

The soap lathered up much in the same way that other samples I’ve tried did. I would have preferred a thicker cream, and QCS is, IMHO, too easy to over-dilute. I usually end up having to fiddle with the lather more than most soaps, to get the balance of water just right to get enough glide with a reasonable amount of thickness. Still, I’m able to get a good shave out of it, just not what I consider a great shave.

Just a quick reminder, I revamped the lather quality scoring system, any former 8/10s or below have been bumped down a point.

The vetiver scent was pretty good. A fair bit earthier than some others that I’ve come across, which I rather liked. But it just wasn’t strong enough, I had to strain to even pick out the scent while shaving, other than the occasional whiff here or there.

  • 9/10 Scent Pleasantness
  • 6/10 Scent Strength
  • 7/10 Lather Quality

So that’ll work out to be a 6/10 overall. Good enough, I suppose, but there’s
better options available.

  • Cost: QCS Samples come in a 5 pack for $10, but with a surcharge for certain scents, so this sample shown one costs $2.50. Or you can get a puck of the stuff for $15 (extra for a tub or wooden bowl).

Gear used:

  • Brush: Ecotools Kabuki Finishing Brush
  • Razor: Edwin Jagger DE81BL (Red)
  • Blade: Gillette 7 O’clock Black
  • Scuttle: Robert’s Feats of Clay #4

Ingredients: Saponified tallow, water, saponified castor oil, shea butter, glycerin, saponified stearic acid, cocoa butters, coconut oil, essential oil(s), saponified avocado oil, palm oil, olive oil, aloe vera extract, kaolin clay, lanolin, vitamin E.

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